Pork Rillettes

pork rillettes

I am decidedly not a superstitious person but there’s a few folk traditions I follow. They tend to be food related, what a surprise! 🙂

I’m not sure if this particular belief exists in other countries, but here it’s considered bad luck to be eating chicken around NYE. Instead, it’s strongly advised to eat pork. As the saying goes, chicken scratch away your luck while pigs root it out for you. So be it!

I am always amazed when I see underrated dishes considered to be the food of the peasants suddenly becoming upscale. It’s what’s happened with rillettes, the poor man’s pâté: once a way to preserve the cheapest cuts of meat, now so gourmet, sold as a delicacy in tiny jars with a big price tag.

I, for one, already loved it before our so-called gastro revolution, when rillettes didn’t have such a name to themselves. Truth be told, I had no clue what I was eating was called a rillette at the time, we called it potted meat. Still.

So, what is this meaty spread?

A confit. Excuse my French: confit is a centuries-old meat preserving method where the cuts are slowly poached in fat. As the fat cools and solidifies, it creates a protective seal on top of the meat, preventing it from spoilage. Food prepared this way can be stored for months.

We do have refrigerators now, but rillettes are so much more than just a way to save meat: they are a perfectly delicious option for hors d’oeuvres, the cornerstone of any charcuterie plate and super convenient to have on hand for entertaining.

It’s guaranteed to wow and better yet, easy peasy to make. I would admit it requires some intuition, but nothing you can’t handle. I made a few bathes experimenting with different cuts of meat and spices to find what best suits my palate, and I guess you’d do the same if you make this recipe. That’s the beauty of it.

I started with pork leg, but it was a bit too lean for this dish so I switched to shoulder which is juicier. Perfect!

Following in the steps of David Lebovitz I rendered the fat for myself first, but found it to be an unnecessary hustle as I have access to quality rendered lard.

As for the spices, salt, black pepper and bay is a must, and then you’re free to test out whatever rocks your boat. My choice is juniper berries and garlic. Lots of garlic. They cook to a soft, sweet, dark amber deliciousness.

Liquid-wise, while a cup of water would do just fine, why not use white wine. Feeling fancy? Get the whiskey or brandy.

When the meat is cooked, you shred it with a fork like you would when making pulled pork, or you can also use a potato masher for the job. When rillette is cool and fat starts to solidify, pack into jars tightly with the back of a spoon to avoid air sockets. Spoon a few tablespoons of melted fat on top to seal, and they are at your disposal, stored in the fridge, for weeks. Take the jar out an hour before serving to soften into a spreadable consistency.

In my opinion, rillettes are best on rustic, toasted bread, accompanied with pickled gherkins, olives, capers and chili flakes.

Pork Rillettes

  • Difficulty: easy
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This French delicacy is a meaty spread full of flavor, perfect for entertaining. Recipe is easy to scale up or down to suit your needs.

Ingredients

500 g pork shoulder, cut to inch-thick slices

400 g rendered lard + a few tbsp to seal tops

10 cloves garlic, peeled

200 ml dry white wine

3 bay leaves

8 juniper berries

salt, black pepper

Directions

  1. Season pork generously with salt and black pepper, let rest at room temperature for an hour.
  2. In a heavy bottomed pan or casserole dish (that has a lid), melt lard on medium-high heat.
  3. Add pork to hot fat, let slices cook on the outsides and color slightly. (Fat should cover meat. If not, add more lard to the pan.)
  4. Add garlic, bay and juniper berries, reduce heat to low. Add wine and cover pot.
  5. Cook on low at a slow simmer, turning slices occassionally until liquid becomes clear, meat pieces are very tender and colored evenly on both sides.
  6. Turn heat off, let meat cool. Remove bay leaves and juniper berries.
  7. Using a fork or potato masher, shred meat pieces.
  8. Place pot in the fridge, stir from time to time as fat hardens. Transfer rillettes into jars and pack tightly with the back of a spoon. Pour reserved fat on top of meat to seal from air. Store in the refrigerator. Serve at room temperature.

Love,

Fruzsi

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Autumn in a Slice Coffee Cake

fall coffee cake

Here’s what happened: I posted this image, a slice of the coffee cake I made on Instagram and was about to leave it at that, but you guys kept asking for the recipe so I’m gonna share it here as well. And happily, too!

There is no story to this really, I just wanted to bake up something simple for us to enjoy over the weekend. November is showing its uglier face lately, it’s dark and wet and windy… switching the oven on and filling the house with the smell of cake seemed to be just the right thing to do.

What I love about coffee cakes is how simple yet versatile they are. The base ingredients in the batter are things I’m sure you have in your pantry right now. If you want to mix things up a bit, just add whatever suits your fancy: fruits, nuts, seeds, chocolate chips, whatever. This time for me it was the very best of fall, namely carrots, apples and walnuts. Also featuring a seeded streusel topping, because why not.

The result is a crumbly and moist cake, crunchy on top. Not too sweet, subtly spiced. Reason to sit down and gab over a cup of coffee, even impressive enough on a pretty cake stand for entertaining (but easy enough that you’ll still have some pep in your step when the guests arrive).

Back to spices for a sec, is it just me, or do you also find it hard to practice self-control when it comes to cinnamon? I love it, I really do but wanted to let the other ingredients have their moment too – it took several batches to adjust the amount so it wouldn’t overpower everything else.

That said, you’ll find the instructions below to the cake I call Autumn in a Slice. Enjoy! Also feel free to tag me @fruzsi_farkas if you made it.

Autumn in a Slice Coffee Cake

  • Difficulty: easy
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Moist coffee cake with a crunchy streusel topping. Simple to make, featuring the best of fall ingredients.

Ingredients

For the streusel topping:

25 g old fashioned rolled oats

25 g pepitas (or hulled pumpkin seeds)

15 g sunflower seeds, hulled

20 g sugar

¼ tsp salt

75 g AP flour

50 g unsalted butter, cold, cut into cubes

For the cake:

200 g AP or whole wheat flour

100 g walnut meal

2 tsp baking powder

4 eggs

½ cup (125 ml) neutral vegetable oil

250 g brown sugar

½ tsp cinnamon

¼ tsp salt

180 g carrots, grated

180 g apples, grated

Directions

  1. Make the streusel topping: whizz the butter, salt, sugar and flour in a food processor until coarse and crumbly. Add oats and seeds, mix with a spoon to combine. If texture is too dry, add 1 tbsp of cold water. Set aside in the fridge.
  2. Preheat oven to 175°C (350°F), line the bottom of a 24 cm (9”) spingform pan with parchment paper. If pan is not non-stick, grease sides as well.
  3. In a bowl, mix dry ingredients: flour, walnut, baking powder and salt to combine.
  4. In another bowl, whisk eggs with oil, sugar and cinnamon. Add carrots and apples, mix well to combine.
  5. Gradually add dry ingredients to wet ingredients, mix to just combine (do not overmix, some visible lumps are fine).
  6. Pour batter in prepared pan, crumble steusel evenly on top.
  7. Bake 10 min, lower the temp to 150°C (300°F) and bake an additional 30-40 min, or until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the middle comes out clean.
  8. Cool on a wire rack 15 min, remove from pan and cool completely before serving. Enjoy!

Love,

Fruzsi

Red Wine Poached Pears

red wine poached pears

Impressive, spectacular, elegant, fancy: a few words popping to my mind when I look at poached pears. They are complicated only until you try making them though, because actually this dessert is really easy. Hint: Holiday Table Showstopper.

When it comes to fall fruits, pears usually take the backseat to apples in terms of popularity. Why, I don’t know. Next time you’re out grocery shopping or better yet, at the farmers market, be sure to pick some up either to make this beautiful dessert, to roast them with honey and walnuts, bake up a cake with or to enjoy along some good cheese.

I admit I made wine poached pears last weekend because I was too ashamed to make mulled wine. The weather is still very much summery here with high temps and lots of sun, and you start drinking mulled wine when the cold rainy days hit… right?! Not me. I am already in the mood for mulled wine, in fact I’m rarely ever not in mulled wine mood. I should be the ambassador for this drink, if such a title exists.

Aaanyhow. For poaching, you’ll need pears that keep their shape when cooked, so look for firmer varieties. Any pear that is not overly ripe is ok, but mushy and bruised ones are not the way to go.

Poached pears take a little time to make but lucky for us, most of that time is hands-off.

First you put together the poaching liquid – spiced wine in this case (I used a Cabernet). Be sure to buy a decent bottle! When choosing wine for cooking there’s really no need for top shelf, but remember to always get something you’d be willing to drink. And you are not limited to red wine either – white wine, moscato, champagne, even chai tea works great for poaching fruits.

While the spices are infusing the liquid (and I get my fix of mulled wine smell), peel the pears: work in long, even strokes, leaving the stems on. If you want to serve your poached pears upright, slice the bottoms flat.

Next, transfer pears to poaching liquid. Depending on size and firmness, it takes 20-30 minutes of gentle simmer for the pears to get nice and tender. Turn them with a slotted spoon occasionally to ensure even cooking and color. Pro tip: put a small plate over them to weigh down if necessary.

The longer the pears sit in the flavorful spiced wine, the better they’ll taste so if you are making this recipe ahead, cool the fruit in the liquid once cooked and refrigerate overnight. If you don’t have that much time on your hands, the poaching liquid can be cooked down to a syrup immediately after the pears are ready.

The last step is to remove the pears from the wine and to reduce the liquid to a thin syrup. You do this by bringing the poaching liquid to a boil, than lower the heat to a steady simmer and cooking it down to about half its original volume, stirring occasionally.

Poached pears are great served chilled or warm (you can reheat them gently). Provide your guests with both a fork and a spoon – a fork to help secure the pear and the spoon to eat it with. Serve pears drizzled with the syrup, add a dollop of whipped cream, greek yogurt, whipped mascarpone, or vanilla ice-cream, and for some added texture, sprinkle with crunchy hazelnut croquant or toasted sliced almonds.

Red Wine Poached Pears

  • Difficulty: easy
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Spectacular yet easy poached pears in a spiced red wine syrup. Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 bottle dry red wine

½ cup sugar

1 cinnamon stick

4 cloves

2 allspice

4 firm, ripe pears

Directions

  1. Combine wine, sugar and spices in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 5 min. While liquid is infusing, peel pears.
  2. Place pears in poaching liquid, simmer for 20-30 minutes turning occasionally. Pears should be cooked but still firm.
  3. Remove and discard spices, set pears aside. Bring poaching liquid to a boil, lower heat to medium and cook until reduced by half and syrupy, about 30 min. (Alternatively, cool pears in liquid to room temperature, than refrigerate 2 hours or up to 24 hours. Reduce wine before serving.)
  4. Place pears on serving plates, drizzle with sauce and serve with vanilla ice-cream sprinkled with hazelnut croquant. Enjoy!

Love,

Fruzsi

Ever Made Elderberry Syrup?

elderberry syrup

Because you should. The stuff is all around now to be harvested and enjoyed.

Elderflowers do get more of the spotlight when it comes to making cordial. Early summer and the heady white blossoms may be gone, but they are replaced with the umbrella-shaped clusters of blue-black fruit: welcome elderberries!

Please note: Eating uncooked elderberries, leaves, bark or roots can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. Also, when I’m talking about the elder plant I refer to European or Black Elder (Sambucus nigra). If you are collecting the flowers or berries yourself, ensure that you have correctly identified the plant as other types of elder may be more toxic.

That said, elderberry is one of the most commonly used medicinal plants, it’s usually taken as a supplement to treat cold and flu symptoms. In folk medicine, the berries are also known to be used as remedy for infections, sciatica, headaches, dental pain, heart pain and nerve pain, as well as a laxative and diuretic. Elderberries have many nutritional benefits as well: a good source of vitamin C, fiber and antioxidants.

All that in a berry. And they taste great too, so go and pick some – the funky tart aroma is so unique! Making elderberry syrup is not a big deal at all, the recipe only calls for 3 ingredients: the berries, sugar and citric acid. When filled into sterilized bottles, the syrup has a decent shelf life of 12 months (as with any other canned product, discard if color, texture, taste or smell has changed). Refrigerate after opening.

A few tips, before you begin: wear rubber gloves when handling the berries, they stain everything deep purple. Wash berries after you have removed them from the stems. Mature berries will sink and remaining stems, immature berries, leafy matter and insects will float. You can store washed berries in ziploc bags in your freezer, or you may dry them as well for later use.

Drink simply diluted with water, or mix it up with lemon, mint or ginger. Just the type of refreshment you need in this heat!

Elderberry Syrup

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Tasty, refreshing syrup made from the blue-black berries of the elder plant. Makes cca. 3,5 l syrup.

Ingredients

1 kg elderberries, stems removed

1,5 kg / 3.3 lbs sugar

3 l / 12 cups water

2 ½ tsp citric acid

Directions

  1. Wearing latex gloves, pick elderberries from stems. Wash.
  2. In a large pot, bring berries and water to a boil. Simmer, covered, for 30 min. stirring occasionally.
  3. Strain/press through a fine sieve.
  4. Add sugar and citric acid to juice, bring to a boil. Cook syrup uncovered for 15 min, until sugar has dissolved and syrup-y consistency is reached.
  5. Fill into sterilized bottles with the help of a funnel and ladle.
  6. Keep in a cool, dark place. Refrigerate after opening.

Love,

Fruzsi

Image: Laura Muthesius / Our Food Stories

3 Easy Ways to Freeze Your Herbs

close-up of basil plant

One of summer’s underrated pleasures is using your own fresh herbs. Wether from your garden, patio planter or windowsill pots, their flavor-boosting power will enhance your cooking all season long.

If you already have a herb garden, nod along: there is always a point during these few months when you find yourself with more than you can possibly use. Sadly fresh herbs, like summer itself, are but a fleeting moment.

But! While admittedly no storage method can faithfully retain the flavor and texture of fresh herbs, there are some simple techniques to preserve surpluses.

Dehydrating, a.k.a drying is one of those methods. It works best with woody herbs like bay leaf and rosemary however, drying may not be the most effective option with tender herbs like mint or basil. (I’m not saying you can’t dry soft-stemmed herbs, because you absolutely can. It’s just that some methods produce better results than others.)

Freezing is another option, and you know how much I love my freezer. It’s a fast and easy way that retains the taste, smell and nutrients found in fresh herbs long after the growing season has ended – the bounty will stay fresh for up to 12 months. Sadly it’s not perfect either, because there will be a change in color and texture: the formation of ice crystals destroys cell walls, turning the herbs limp after defrosting. Frozen herbs are also prone to freezer burn, this happens when the ice crystals in them go directly from solid ice form to water vapor.

All in all, frozen herbs are ideal in sauces, soups, marinades and stews, rather than thawed as a garnish. Freeze them in small portions and just take out what you need – it’s a great way to have herbs immediately for cooking.

I’ve collected 3 easy ways for you to freeze your herbs:

Chop & freeze. This is the most straightforward thing to do, but also the highest risk of freezer burn. Store chopped herbs in portions in small zipper-lock bags, flattened, with the air pressed out as much as possible.

Frozen, covered with water. Chop herbs and place portions in an ice-cube tray, cover with water. Freeze, than transfer cubes to a zipper-lock bag to store. Tip: I use this method to make what I call lemonade starters – I place lemon slices and mint leaves in my muffin tray, fill holes with water and freeze.

Frozen, covered with oil. Preserving herbs in oil yields the best results in my experience – the method reduces some of the browning and the oil-based cubes also melt faster compared to water-covered cubes. Use the ice-cube tray slots and cover chopped herbs with a neutral vegetable oil or a mild olive oil. When solid, transfer cubes to a zipper-lock bag to store.

You can store the different varieties separate, or you can prepare herb mixes for foods you make often (think pasta sauce).

Have you tried any of these methods? How did they work out for you? Which are your favorite herbs to preserve? Let me know!

Love,

Fruzsi

Title image ‘Close-up of basil plant’ via Freepik

Lemon Poppy Seed Loaf with Elderflower Glaze

lemon poppy seed bread with elderflower glazeWe’ve got a weird spring this year. March was colder than usual, while April turned out to be the warmest in 110+ years. Completely missed that lovely transitional time, went instead from winter coats to short sleeves in a matter of days. Nature is perplexed too – tulips lasted less than a week, lilacs were over before Mother’s Day, black locust are literally everywhere now, a month early.

Same goes for elderflower. I realized they started blooming on one of our walks around the neighbourhood last week. I knew I had to act if I don’t want to miss my window for elderflower cordial so I grabbed a basket and a pair of pruning shears. Ended up with a few nasty scars in the hedgerow, but they’ll heal. The things I do for my cordial! 🙂

Anyway, the syrup is already bottled up and sitting in the pantry. I popped the first one open to make the glaze for this easy dessert I’ve been wanting to bake ever since we were served a slice (ok, I took two…) at the calligraphy workshop with lovely Boglarka Gleichauf (make sure to check her page The Fanatic Calligrapher!). It’s Lemon Poppy Seed Loaf Cake.

The batter is an easy pound cake variation made with basic ingredients, not much to talk about really. It’s just a few minutes to throw together, but the combination of lemon and poppy seed makes this otherwise simple loaf so fresh and cheerful. Hubby said it tastes like sunshine. It’s also moist and tender, and let’s not forget that luscious glaze with the heady aroma of elderflower. What’s not to love?

Now, before I give you the recipe I have to tell I don’t care much for citrus zest so I simply omit it from my cooking. The juice of the lemon gives enough tartness to this cake by itself in my opinion, but do feel free to add the zest as well if it’s something you like.

Lemon Poppy Seed Loaf Cake with Elderflower Glaze

  • Difficulty: easy
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Moist pound cake with the fresh taste of lemon, crunchy poppy seeds and fragrant elderflower glaze.

Ingredients

For the batter:

2 cups AP flour

2 tbsp poppy seeds

1 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

6 tbsp butter, softened

1 cup granulated sugar

3 eggs

1 cup natural yogurt

3 tbsp fresh lemon juice + zest (optional)

For the glaze:

2 tbsp elderflower syrup

1 cup powderd sugar

Directions

  1. Preheat oven to 175°C/350°F. Line with parchment paper and grease a loaf pan.
  2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda and poppy seeds.
  3. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar with a handheld mixer until pale and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well between additions. Add yogurt and lemon juice, mix to fully incorporate.
  4. Switch to a spatula. Add flour mixture to egg mixture in 3 additions, folding until just combined.
  5. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake until golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 50 min to 1 h depending on your oven.
  6. Let loaf cool in pan for 15 min. Remove from pan and cool completely on a wire rack.
  7. While loaf is cooling, make glaze: mix syrup with powdered sugar. Pour over loaf. Enjoy!

Love,

Fruzsi

*Disclaimer: I have visited and paid for the service mentioned in this post. What I write about business establishments on My Chest of Wonders represents my genuine and unbiased opinion, I am not being compensated in any way through sponsorship, commissions or gifts.*

Mother’s Day Gift Idea: Flavored Sugars

infused sugar

I’ve first encountered flavored sugars at my local Lidl, and even though I consider myself a conscious consumer, the marketing totally worked. I mean let’s be honest, who wouldn’t want something called Deluxe Baked Apple Flavour Sugar? Especially on a dark and rainy fall afternoon.

Although I love this product, at one point I started thinking how difficult could it be to make something similar at home. A quick Pinterest search later I realized these fancy sugars are a hit! Bonus points for being inexpensive and virtually endless in variety.

Anything you’d use plain white sugar in/on can be spruced up with infused sugars: they are wonderful to have on hand for stirring into coffee, sprinkling over oatmeal, waffles, pancakes, cookies, even to garnish the rim of a cocktail glass. They take anything up a notch.

The technique for making infused sugars is so straightforward I wouldn’t even call it a recipe, pretty much like infused salts. You will need 4 parts plain ol’ granulated sugar, brown sugar or powdered sugar, plus 1 part flavor of your choosing. Let the sugar sit for at least one week to get optimal flavor.

Spices may be added ground or whole, or both for a pretty presentation (you can always strain the infused sugar into a separate bowl before using to flavor something where bigger particles are not welcome).

Store your creations in small airtight jars (I love these affordable ones from Ikea). My  vanilla-cinnamon sugar is kept in a sifter-shaker so it’s ready for a generous dusting whenever inspiration strikes, which is often.

Flavored sugars made with dry ingredients (like vanilla, cinnamon or culinary-grade lavender) last for months, while varieties with wet ingredients (like fresh mint leaves or citrus rind) have a shorter shelf life of a few weeks. Don’t forget to mark the date you made each batch on the container. Your infusion might clump up a little while drying, but a good shake helps break it up before using.

Consider creating a gift set for Mother’s Day with nice tags and suggestions to use. Have fun experimenting with interesting flavor combinations, and don’t forget to tell me about it!

Love,

Fruzsi

*Disclaimer: I like and use products mentioned in posts on My Chest of Wonders, what I write about such items represent my genuine and unbiased opinion. I am not being compensated through sponsorship, commissions or gifts. No affiliate links are included in this post.*